Frequently Asked Questions.
Its not every day that you get a log milled into lumber so naturally you may have some questions. Here is a list of commonly asked questions but by no means can answer all questions. If you have any other questions to not hesitate to contact me. If you are new to lumber milling, Great! My goal is that together we achieve your desired milling project and that you have fun being part of the process of converting your logs into a valuable lumber.
Below are some of the most commonly asked questions I receive from new customers. While is list is not meant to answer all of your questions, it is a good place to start. Additional more in depth articles to specific topics can be found on at the blogging stump.
How long does it take mill my log into lumber?
Milling speed is determined by many factors including how clean the logs are, staging of logs in relation to the mill, labor present to offload and stack cut lumber and diameter of the log being cut. Our mill is capable of cutting 375bd ft/hr if all limiting factors are in order.
What is a Board Foot, (bd ft)?
A board foot is a unit a volume used to quantify a 12’’x12’’x1’’ piece of lumber.
How much waste is generated from my logs?
Our mill is a thin kerf (width of the cut) band mill. What this means is there is much less waste from a log in the form of sawdust than a traditional circular blade mill which is typically ¼’’ per cut. That's an inch of lumber lost for every four cuts. Our mill’s blade is a fraction of the width of a tradition mill resulting in more wood and less waste. Depending on how you want your log to be milled there will be cuts off four sides (bark slabs) as the log is squared that can be used for fire wood. There will also be a line of sawdust that can be collected on a tarp and used as free mulch. (walnut is not recommended for mulch). These by-products are yours and can in some instances provide a source of revenue (i.e.firewood) to offset the cost of milling.
If I am getting my tree cut down, how should I have the trunk cut for it to be milled?
Try to have the tree cut in lengths a little longer than what you determine are needed for the final intended project. As freshly milled wood dries it will slightly shrink and crack on the ends depending on the species. By cutting the log a little longer, it will ensure you still have enough lumber for your intended use accounting for these variables. Keep in mind, if there is a two way split in the truck where a branch is, have the tree cut a little beyond the split so you are able to preserve the crotch figure in the log.
Are my trees ideal for milling into lumber?
Maybe........Ideal means different thing to different people. If you are looking for highly figured lumber with lots of unique character than maybe that twisted forked tree in the back forty is the ticket. If you are looking for maximum yield then a tall strait tree without low limbs may be the answer. It is really up to you want you want me to spend the time to saw. Be aware, old yard trees can be full of character as well as nails and rocks too. Trees taken from a field hedge row commonly contain barbed wire from an old fence line.
Can you cut my crooked logs?
Because out mill is capable of milling logs 36’’ wide, we are able to cut smaller logs of irregular shape within reason. Irregular logs will take longer to mill into boards but can have a lot of character hidden within them.
Will you cut down my tree?
No. Cutting the tree down will need to be performed beforehand by a tree service company or yourself. I can give you a recommendation of a reputable tree service company that can transport the logs to my mill location saving you money in the process. I will have the ability to cut a longer log into a smaller section for milling but it will need to be in the staging area for milling and already cut down. Trees should be free of limbs, clean of mud and able to roll freely on the ground.
What happens if there is a nail or other foreign object in my log?
A bandsaw blade is designed to cut wood. When a blade strikes an object embedded in a tree it usually damages the blade requiring re-sharpening or replacing. It is not uncommon for lawn trees or trees cut from field edges to container metal, bullets or other foreign objects that will damage the blade even to the surprise of the owner of the land that swears nothing is inside :) ! We will do our best to visually check the bark of log for these objects, but often they are inside with the tree having grown around the object.
For damaged blades there will be a 30$ fee. Logs should be cleaned free of mud and stones as well as branched limbed off so that the mill can load the log onto the ramps. Logs that have been drug through the mud will need to be cleaned by hand, costing you more in the end if I have to do it.
Should my logs be green (freshly cut down) or dry before milling?
Freshly cut down trees (green) tend to have a higher moisture content in the form of water and nutrients. This extra moisture acts as a blade lubricant and keeps it running cooler though the cut resulting in a faster more even cut. As a log sits on the ground it will loose this free moisture in the form of evaporation through the ends of the log and through the bark. Coating the ends with a wax coating (anchor seal) will help slow this loss of moisture. Dry logs can be cut but tend to process slightly slower because of the lack of moisture. I have sawn logs that have set on the ground for 6 years before being milled. The quality of the final product depends on the species and its susceptibility to decay. Some logs can develop an attractive spalting effect while others become punky with decay.
What can I do with the lumber after it has been milled?
Depending on the final end use, freshly milled lumber will need to dry. Each species of wood dries at a different rate. The rule of thumb for air dried lumber is one year for every inch of thickness to reach an equilibrium moisture content with the surrounding environment. This rule is often broken with drying times much quicker depending on the conditions. The thicker the board is milled the less this rule applies as it will take longer to dry internally. Another option is to have the lumber kiln dried at a local lumber yard. If the lumber is to be used in an outdoor setting such as fencing or timber post, the wood can be used immediately after cutting.
How do I air dry my lumber?
To air dry lumber, you will need a flat area, preferably an area that receives good year round air flow. The lumber should be stacked on a solid base off of the ground with spacers called (stickers) placed evenly in between to allow air to flow freely in between the boards. Place the stickers evenly throughout the stack to promote an even distribution of weight. If stickers are needed, we can usually cut some from an extra board onsite. The key is air movement. If the stickers are wet or there is lack of air flow, the lumber can get sticker stain or develop mold. If it dries to quickly (stored in the sun with no top cover) it is more prone to develop cracks on the end of the board. Ideal once all of the boards are stacked, you should place a covering over the top only. This could be anything from a piece if metal roofing to a sacrificial piece of lumber. The purpose of the top cap is directly protect the stack from the elements above and shed rain and snow. It is OK is the stack receives occasional rain or moisture from the sides, and it most likely will. The key is that you want the lumber to slowly shed it's moisture over time, eventually reaching the equilibrium moisture content of your specific climate. This moisture content for PA is around 12%. You do not want to cover the wood completely with a tarp, as this will not allow the moisture to escape and will promote rot.
Do I need to take my boards to a Kiln to dry?
Air drying lumber is my preferred method of drying lumber as it is a slow progression of moisture loss which allows the log to acclimate at a natural pace with its environment. There are other benefits to air drying lumber as well, such as color retention in walnut and increased stability in most species. The slower moisture leaves the wood the more stable the final product will be.
I have successfully used air dried lumber in many interior woodworking projects with great results. If a lower moisture content is desired after air drying, you can finish dry the lumber in a kiln. This should result in a more stable end product as most of the moisture has already left the lumber before being kiln dried.
When do you start charging me for time?
My billable time starts when I arrive at your site. I will meet with you and set up the mill in preparation for sawing which takes about 30 minutes depending on the site. I will run the mill as fast as it is fed logs, so it is to your benefit to have the logs ready to go cleaned and cut to length beside the area the mill will be set up. (please see pricing page for more information).
Why do you charge per hour instead of BF?
The two most common methods of charging for sawyer services are either by the hour or per BF (board foot). What I never understood by sawyers' charging by the BF is, the customer pay the same amount it the sawyer makes one cut in the log or 50 cuts. The logs are YOURS and you should not pay me more if you only want a log squared opposed to boards.
The advantage of charging by the hour for the customer is that the sawyer is not in a rush to get paid for the volume of lumber produced and can concentrate more on getting the best cuts from the log. Each log presents a unique internal grain pattern and can be cut specifically to achieve the best end result. If you are looking to maximize BF cut in a given day then Walker’s Milling may not be your best in sawmill services. While we can cut a lot of BF in a given day, we focus more on a quality end product based upon your specific and unique goals.
What kind of space do I need to have for you to set up your mill?
There is no routine job when it comes to milling. Each location presents its’ own unique challenges. There are some simple requirements I will need in order to set the mill up at your site. I will need a flat spot about 40-50 feet in length to accommodate my truck and mill. The more space I have to maneuver the easier it is and less time spent to set up the mill. The site will also need to be dry. Walker’s Milling is not responsible for damage caused by trailer tire ruts. If you have the means, transporting your logs to our mill location is preferred and often more affordable overall for you because there is no transportation or minimum charges. See pricing for more information.
How big can my log be for you to mill it?
The mill is a manual mill, which means that the logs will need to be rolled up ramps onto the mill bed. Depending on the diameter of the log this can be accomplished with a log roller I will provide or with a winch attached to the mill.
The mill is capable of handling a 36 ‘’ diameter log which weighs a ton (literally). Just because you have a 36’’ diameter log does NOT mean I will be able to mill it. Different species of wood contain different amounts of free water and have different densities resulting in different weights. Depending of these variable as well as if the log is perfectly strait will determine if the log is capable of being milled. I will not risk damaging the mill or compromising safety just to mill a log! I've had some massive logs loaded onto my mill before. Each one is unique and requires special handling to position them just right.
Can I drop my logs off for milling onsite?
It may be possible to drop off your logs at our site as long as you provide the transportation. Please call ahead to discuss time and your individual needs. We can provide assistance offloading your logs at an hourly rate of $60/hour. We have a smaller Kubota tractor available that is capable of lifting 1,000 lbs. Please note Walker’s Milling LLC. is not responsible for damages incurred during the offloading process.
Because Walker’s Milling LLC is operated as a part time business, contracted portable sawing hours are limited to the occasional Saturdays. While the mill is portable, operating it in a portable fashion is more time intensive for me and is limited by my personal schedule and availability. If you cannot wait to book a portable session and have the ability to transport the logs to my site, I should be able to get your logs processed into lumber in a more timely fashion throughout the week. We can discuss cutting specifications in advance and I can call you when the lumber is done and ready for pickup. If you are dropping logs off at my site there is NO minimum charge even if you have one log, just my per hour rate of 60$.
How do I book a milling day?
The best way to get in contact with Walker’s Milling is by phone. During the day please leave a message and I will return your call promptly. This is the best way to discuss your individual milling needs as well as log and site logistics. Sometimes I may request that you send a picture of your logs and or the milling location if there is a concern that I will not be able to setup at your location. The last thing I want to do is waste your time telling you I can mill for you when in reality it is not possible due to something we could have figured out before the milling day.
How long does it take mill my log into lumber?
Milling speed is determined by many factors including how clean the logs are, staging of logs in relation to the mill, labor present to offload and stack cut lumber and diameter of the log being cut. Our mill is capable of cutting 375bd ft/hr if all limiting factors are in order.
What is a Board Foot, (bd ft)?
A board foot is a unit a volume used to quantify a 12’’x12’’x1’’ piece of lumber.
How much waste is generated from my logs?
Our mill is a thin kerf (width of the cut) band mill. What this means is there is much less waste from a log in the form of sawdust than a traditional circular blade mill which is typically ¼’’ per cut. That's an inch of lumber lost for every four cuts. Our mill’s blade is a fraction of the width of a tradition mill resulting in more wood and less waste. Depending on how you want your log to be milled there will be cuts off four sides (bark slabs) as the log is squared that can be used for fire wood. There will also be a line of sawdust that can be collected on a tarp and used as free mulch. (walnut is not recommended for mulch). These by-products are yours and can in some instances provide a source of revenue (i.e.firewood) to offset the cost of milling.
If I am getting my tree cut down, how should I have the trunk cut for it to be milled?
Try to have the tree cut in lengths a little longer than what you determine are needed for the final intended project. As freshly milled wood dries it will slightly shrink and crack on the ends depending on the species. By cutting the log a little longer, it will ensure you still have enough lumber for your intended use accounting for these variables. Keep in mind, if there is a two way split in the truck where a branch is, have the tree cut a little beyond the split so you are able to preserve the crotch figure in the log.
Are my trees ideal for milling into lumber?
Maybe........Ideal means different thing to different people. If you are looking for highly figured lumber with lots of unique character than maybe that twisted forked tree in the back forty is the ticket. If you are looking for maximum yield then a tall strait tree without low limbs may be the answer. It is really up to you want you want me to spend the time to saw. Be aware, old yard trees can be full of character as well as nails and rocks too. Trees taken from a field hedge row commonly contain barbed wire from an old fence line.
Can you cut my crooked logs?
Because out mill is capable of milling logs 36’’ wide, we are able to cut smaller logs of irregular shape within reason. Irregular logs will take longer to mill into boards but can have a lot of character hidden within them.
Will you cut down my tree?
No. Cutting the tree down will need to be performed beforehand by a tree service company or yourself. I can give you a recommendation of a reputable tree service company that can transport the logs to my mill location saving you money in the process. I will have the ability to cut a longer log into a smaller section for milling but it will need to be in the staging area for milling and already cut down. Trees should be free of limbs, clean of mud and able to roll freely on the ground.
What happens if there is a nail or other foreign object in my log?
A bandsaw blade is designed to cut wood. When a blade strikes an object embedded in a tree it usually damages the blade requiring re-sharpening or replacing. It is not uncommon for lawn trees or trees cut from field edges to container metal, bullets or other foreign objects that will damage the blade even to the surprise of the owner of the land that swears nothing is inside :) ! We will do our best to visually check the bark of log for these objects, but often they are inside with the tree having grown around the object.
For damaged blades there will be a 30$ fee. Logs should be cleaned free of mud and stones as well as branched limbed off so that the mill can load the log onto the ramps. Logs that have been drug through the mud will need to be cleaned by hand, costing you more in the end if I have to do it.
Should my logs be green (freshly cut down) or dry before milling?
Freshly cut down trees (green) tend to have a higher moisture content in the form of water and nutrients. This extra moisture acts as a blade lubricant and keeps it running cooler though the cut resulting in a faster more even cut. As a log sits on the ground it will loose this free moisture in the form of evaporation through the ends of the log and through the bark. Coating the ends with a wax coating (anchor seal) will help slow this loss of moisture. Dry logs can be cut but tend to process slightly slower because of the lack of moisture. I have sawn logs that have set on the ground for 6 years before being milled. The quality of the final product depends on the species and its susceptibility to decay. Some logs can develop an attractive spalting effect while others become punky with decay.
What can I do with the lumber after it has been milled?
Depending on the final end use, freshly milled lumber will need to dry. Each species of wood dries at a different rate. The rule of thumb for air dried lumber is one year for every inch of thickness to reach an equilibrium moisture content with the surrounding environment. This rule is often broken with drying times much quicker depending on the conditions. The thicker the board is milled the less this rule applies as it will take longer to dry internally. Another option is to have the lumber kiln dried at a local lumber yard. If the lumber is to be used in an outdoor setting such as fencing or timber post, the wood can be used immediately after cutting.
How do I air dry my lumber?
To air dry lumber, you will need a flat area, preferably an area that receives good year round air flow. The lumber should be stacked on a solid base off of the ground with spacers called (stickers) placed evenly in between to allow air to flow freely in between the boards. Place the stickers evenly throughout the stack to promote an even distribution of weight. If stickers are needed, we can usually cut some from an extra board onsite. The key is air movement. If the stickers are wet or there is lack of air flow, the lumber can get sticker stain or develop mold. If it dries to quickly (stored in the sun with no top cover) it is more prone to develop cracks on the end of the board. Ideal once all of the boards are stacked, you should place a covering over the top only. This could be anything from a piece if metal roofing to a sacrificial piece of lumber. The purpose of the top cap is directly protect the stack from the elements above and shed rain and snow. It is OK is the stack receives occasional rain or moisture from the sides, and it most likely will. The key is that you want the lumber to slowly shed it's moisture over time, eventually reaching the equilibrium moisture content of your specific climate. This moisture content for PA is around 12%. You do not want to cover the wood completely with a tarp, as this will not allow the moisture to escape and will promote rot.
Do I need to take my boards to a Kiln to dry?
Air drying lumber is my preferred method of drying lumber as it is a slow progression of moisture loss which allows the log to acclimate at a natural pace with its environment. There are other benefits to air drying lumber as well, such as color retention in walnut and increased stability in most species. The slower moisture leaves the wood the more stable the final product will be.
I have successfully used air dried lumber in many interior woodworking projects with great results. If a lower moisture content is desired after air drying, you can finish dry the lumber in a kiln. This should result in a more stable end product as most of the moisture has already left the lumber before being kiln dried.
When do you start charging me for time?
My billable time starts when I arrive at your site. I will meet with you and set up the mill in preparation for sawing which takes about 30 minutes depending on the site. I will run the mill as fast as it is fed logs, so it is to your benefit to have the logs ready to go cleaned and cut to length beside the area the mill will be set up. (please see pricing page for more information).
Why do you charge per hour instead of BF?
The two most common methods of charging for sawyer services are either by the hour or per BF (board foot). What I never understood by sawyers' charging by the BF is, the customer pay the same amount it the sawyer makes one cut in the log or 50 cuts. The logs are YOURS and you should not pay me more if you only want a log squared opposed to boards.
The advantage of charging by the hour for the customer is that the sawyer is not in a rush to get paid for the volume of lumber produced and can concentrate more on getting the best cuts from the log. Each log presents a unique internal grain pattern and can be cut specifically to achieve the best end result. If you are looking to maximize BF cut in a given day then Walker’s Milling may not be your best in sawmill services. While we can cut a lot of BF in a given day, we focus more on a quality end product based upon your specific and unique goals.
What kind of space do I need to have for you to set up your mill?
There is no routine job when it comes to milling. Each location presents its’ own unique challenges. There are some simple requirements I will need in order to set the mill up at your site. I will need a flat spot about 40-50 feet in length to accommodate my truck and mill. The more space I have to maneuver the easier it is and less time spent to set up the mill. The site will also need to be dry. Walker’s Milling is not responsible for damage caused by trailer tire ruts. If you have the means, transporting your logs to our mill location is preferred and often more affordable overall for you because there is no transportation or minimum charges. See pricing for more information.
How big can my log be for you to mill it?
The mill is a manual mill, which means that the logs will need to be rolled up ramps onto the mill bed. Depending on the diameter of the log this can be accomplished with a log roller I will provide or with a winch attached to the mill.
The mill is capable of handling a 36 ‘’ diameter log which weighs a ton (literally). Just because you have a 36’’ diameter log does NOT mean I will be able to mill it. Different species of wood contain different amounts of free water and have different densities resulting in different weights. Depending of these variable as well as if the log is perfectly strait will determine if the log is capable of being milled. I will not risk damaging the mill or compromising safety just to mill a log! I've had some massive logs loaded onto my mill before. Each one is unique and requires special handling to position them just right.
Can I drop my logs off for milling onsite?
It may be possible to drop off your logs at our site as long as you provide the transportation. Please call ahead to discuss time and your individual needs. We can provide assistance offloading your logs at an hourly rate of $60/hour. We have a smaller Kubota tractor available that is capable of lifting 1,000 lbs. Please note Walker’s Milling LLC. is not responsible for damages incurred during the offloading process.
Because Walker’s Milling LLC is operated as a part time business, contracted portable sawing hours are limited to the occasional Saturdays. While the mill is portable, operating it in a portable fashion is more time intensive for me and is limited by my personal schedule and availability. If you cannot wait to book a portable session and have the ability to transport the logs to my site, I should be able to get your logs processed into lumber in a more timely fashion throughout the week. We can discuss cutting specifications in advance and I can call you when the lumber is done and ready for pickup. If you are dropping logs off at my site there is NO minimum charge even if you have one log, just my per hour rate of 60$.
How do I book a milling day?
The best way to get in contact with Walker’s Milling is by phone. During the day please leave a message and I will return your call promptly. This is the best way to discuss your individual milling needs as well as log and site logistics. Sometimes I may request that you send a picture of your logs and or the milling location if there is a concern that I will not be able to setup at your location. The last thing I want to do is waste your time telling you I can mill for you when in reality it is not possible due to something we could have figured out before the milling day.